ATV Jetting

by Nick Harris on Aug 22

ATV Jetting Kit ATV Jetting basics, tuning your ATVs carb for maximum performance.

How do I know my jetting is off ? My ATV bogs down a lot, is jetting to blame ? I’ve added ATV performance parts, what now ?

Jetting doesn’t have to be a mystery, you can tune your own ATV if you understand some jetting basics. A comprehensive installation guide will come with the jetting kit you purchase for your make and model of ATV so instead this guide will focus on jetting basics. Here’s how jetting works…

 The first thing you need to know is that jetting refers to throttle position and not engine rpm. Each jet is effective for a specific throttle position range. The pilot jet or pilot screw as it is sometimes referred to controls the flow of fuel between Idle speed and about one eight of wide open throttle (WOT). The needle jet controls the flow of fuel from the one eight position up to about the three quarter throttle position. Lastly your main jet controls the flow of fuel between the three quarter and wide open throttle positions.

The second thing you need to know is that aftermarket performance parts will change your jetting requirements. Increased engine performance usually means an increased demand for fuel so learning to jet your ATV properly is important.

Other factors that affect jetting are rev limiters, altitude and fouled plugs if your jetting is off. Altitude directly affects engine performance because the higher you go from sea level the thinner the air gets.

Pilot Jet – Pilot Screw: Controls the fuel/air mixture between Idle and 1/4 throttle. Turning the screw IN makes the fuel/air mixture leaner. Turning the screw OUT makes the fuel/air mixture richer. Lean means less gas, rich means more gas.

Every jet is identified by a number and that number relates directly to the size of the opening inside the jet. Again smaller is leaner, larger is richer. When jetting your carb if you find that you need to turn the pilot jet all the way in to improve response then you likely need to switch to a smaller number of screw.

If on the other hand you need to turn it more than 2.5 turns out you likely need a larger numbered screw. When your engine bogs down at the smallest increase in throttle position your pilot jetting is likely too rich.

Needle Jet and its Needle: Controls the  fuel/air mixture from the 1/8th throttle position all the way up to the 3/4 throttle position. The needle within the needle jet is a long tapered pin. As you increase the throttle position the pin pulls out of its jet allowing the fuel/air mixture to become richer. There are several different shapes and diameter of needles/needle jets but the needle jet is often left alone during tuning as it doesn’t affect idle or top end performance. The same rich/lean characteristics apply as with the pilot screw.

Main Jet controls the fuel/air mixture from the 3/4 throttle position up to wide open throttle. Again the main jet is numbered and a larger number indicates a larger hole and a richer mixture. A stock engine will perform well with a stock main jet but once engine performance parts are added its likely that you will need to revisit at least the main jet of your carburetor. Different performance part combinations will create different demands from your carburetor. Anything that increases horsepower will also increase fuel demand.

All the performance parts in the world won’t improve performance if you don’t tune your carb. If you have a rev limiter in place you may need to tune or upgrade that as well because a rev limiter will tend to bog down the engine at full throttle as well. Make sure to follow the instructions included with most jetting kits.

Leave a comment if you have questions or other tips related to ATV carb jetting.


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10 ATV Jetting reviews
  1. Posted by BrentTRX on 4 Sep

    Thanks for the advice!

  2. Posted by Nick on 6 Apr

    You’re welcome!

  3. Posted by jason on 22 Apr

    We are heading to St. Athony dunes in december and my quad is jetted for 0 to 3000 ft. elevation. How many jet sizes should i drop to run at 5000 ft.? Thanks Jason

  4. Posted by Nick on 24 Apr

    Hi Jason, lets assume your current setup is jetted for sea level and the temperature is 60 degrees F and give that a rating of 1. Now, take that rating and move it up to 3000 feet, same temperature and you’re looking at a jetting factor of roughly 0.97. Next bring it up to the 5000 ft mark, same temperature, and it would become roughly 0.95.

    What those ratings mean is that if your main jet at sea level was a 180 you would multiply that by 0.97 for 3000 feet and 0.95 for 5000 feet (temperature matters, colder=higher factor).

    If your jet is 180×0.95=171. You’d be replacing the 180 with a 171 main jet at 5000 feet, replace the 180 with whatever jet you’re using in that equation. Hope that helps.

  5. Posted by Cliff on 15 Jul

    After installing a pipe and free flowing filter to my son’s 300ex, I used the recommended jetting by the pipe mfgr. I’m getting a stutter on the top end. I dropped down the main jet size and lowered the needle and its still doing it. Am I going the wrong way? Do I need to go bigger on the main jet or raise the needle? Thanks,

  6. Posted by James on 22 Apr

    Wow, thanks for this, I wish I found this a long time ago. Now ill go look for my jet settings.

  7. Posted by Tony on 19 Jul

    I’m going out west to hunt in the mountains. 7,000ft, what jet factor do I need for my suzuki 500 vinson? Thanks

  8. Posted by Nick on 20 Jul

    You didn’t mention the year or details about exhaust upgrades etc. In my opinion you may not need to rejet at all for the trip. I’ve had stock ATVs (2009, 2010) perform equally as well at 8500 feet as they did at 2000 feet. You won’t be riding at high altitude for long and would have to rejet again when you came home. Your best bet however, to be on the safe side, is to get an ATV jetting kit before you leave and have it with you on the trip. Follow the manufacturers instructions about high altitude jetting adjustments if you feel that the ATV isn’t running properly and if you end up not using the kit consider it spare parts for later. I don’t think you’re going to need it and it doesn’t take very long to make the change if you do.

  9. Posted by Robert on 24 Jan

    2008 525 S, Outlaw. I’m installing FMF power bomb and factory 4.1 exhaust. I’m also thinking about running 105 leaded fuel, the elevation I’m running at is round 5,000 ft. Operating leaded fuel and new exhaust how much will that effect my jetting? The jetting right now is working fine.

  10. Posted by Nick on 28 Jan

    Hi Robert,

    I doubt you’re going to need to adjust the jetting on that particular engine with those performance mods if the altitude isn’t changing. The air to fuel ration, which is roughly 12.5 to 1, will still be the optimal mixture. Make sure you run on the rich side if anything, a lean condition will burn out your engine and you know you’re lean if you get backfiring and slow response. Rich isn’t better, it’s just less dangerous to your engine.

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